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Larry is a certified
trainer and owner of Paws2tail. He was raised on a farm and surrounded
by many animals, which included six dogs of his own. This destined
Larry to have a rewarding career as a dog trainer . . .
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Wellness Care for Your
Puppy’s Behavioral Health
Congratulations on adding a new puppy to your family! You
are starting on a journey that should last until your puppy
becomes a gray-faced senior. Despite the unavoidable bumps
along the way, those years should be filled with fun and love
as you and your dog share each other’s lives. Puppyhood is
crucially important to you and your puppy. It’s both an incredibly
fun time and a tremendous responsibility.
There is no other time you can have more influence over your
puppy’s behavior and the type of dog she becomes than now.
You won’t get the chance to redo or undo these formative weeks.
How responsive your dog is to you, how she gets along with
other dogs and people of all types, and how easy she is to
live with will be largely determined by what you do before
your puppy is six months old.
It will be up to you, with help from many sources, to do what
it takes to have your puppy develop into the wonderful adult
companion you had in mind. Your veterinarian will teach you
how to keep your puppy healthy through proper diet, dental
care, exercise, regular veterinary exams and vaccinations.
Keeping your dog’s weight within certain limits, checking
her teeth and gums to be sure they are clean and not inflamed,
making sure her coat is clean and free from mats, and keeping
her nails comfortably short are all signs you are maintaining
your puppy in good physical health.
Characteristics of Behaviorally Healthy Dogs
As a puppy grows up, somehow she just won’t passively turn
into the companion you want. You have to describe how you
want your dog to behave, so you can then discover what you
need to do to encourage those behaviors.
The following is a list of good behaviors that most people
want from their dogs, and behaviors that make your dog a safe
and enjoyable member of your community.
Behaviorally Healthy Dogs: Top of Page
Are affectionate without being “needy”
Are friendly toward friendly people and well-behaved children
Get along with other friendly dogs, including dogs outside
the family
Are at ease with normal, everyday handling
Can be left alone for reasonable time periods in the house
or yard without becoming anxious or panicked
Relieve themselves only in desired areas
Are not overly fearful of normal, everyday events or new things
Can adapt to change with minimal problems
Play well with people and other dogs by not becoming uncontrollable
or rough
Play with their own toys, and are not often destructive
Are content when left in a yard, car or crate for reasonable
time periods and do not try to escape or threaten people passing
by
Reliably respond when told to sit, down, come or stay and
can walk nicely on a loose leash
The Five-Step Positive Proaction Plan: A Blueprint
for a Behaviorally Healthy Dog
While raising a puppy is a big responsibility and requires
an investment of time and energy, it also has big payoffs.
Your dog can be your best friend and enrich your life in ways
that even your best human friend or family member may not.
What should you do when your puppy jumps on people? Should
you show your puppy her “mess” if she urinates on the floor?
What about when you catch your puppy chewing on the couch?
There could be a thousand different questions you’ll have,
and you’d still have more.
Use our Five Step Positive Proaction Plan – your guiding principles
– to help you know what to do with each of these normal puppy
behaviors. Because every puppy’s situation is just a little
different, by using this plan rather then relying on “Cookbook”
answers found in other books, you have the flexibility of
thinking through how to select and apply the steps to your
puppy.
Step 1: Help Your Puppy Do the Right Thing Top of Page
The first step in having a behaviorally healthy dog is to
catch your puppy doing something right. When your puppy eliminates
outside for example, reward her immediately. If your puppy
finally lies down and is quietly chewing on her toy, gently
pet her and tell her what a good dog she is. Catching your
puppy doing something right is like taking advantage of “teachable
moments” to let her know that you like what she’s doing. Good
behavior too often goes unrewarded. Reinforcement can be a
tidbit, playing with your puppy, or quietly petting her. Dogs
who are unruly, annoying and pester people, often receive
the most attention when they are misbehaving, and do not receive
sufficient reinforcement for good behaviors. If you seldom
reinforce your puppy when she is quiet and calm, and doing
what you want, you may be making it more likely your puppy
will discover that misbehavior has a better payoff.
At other times, you may need to be proactive and take steps
to trigger the behavior you want. Reinforcement only makes
good behavior more likely to occur. You must also actively
draw out the behavior you want so you can reinforce it. There
are several easy ways to do this. One is a technique called
“lure- reward.” A lure is something that prompts your puppy
to do what you want. For example, you could teach your puppy
to come by showing her a treat, or shaking the container that
holds the treats. When she comes, you give her the tidbit
(the reward). Once she has the idea, you can fade out the
treat, and only use it for a reward after she comes.
Step 2: Keep Bad Habits from Developing Top of Page
Managing your puppy’s environment, so she doesn’t have the
chance to do the wrong thing, is an essential step in the
plan. Your job is to make it easy for your puppy to do what
you want her to do, and very difficult to do the things you
don’t like.
Puppies are curious and inquisitive creatures and will undoubtedly
get into something they shouldn’t if someone isn’t watching.
You need to know what your puppy is doing almost every second.
Your puppy should never be out of your sight long enough to
get herself into trouble by relieving herself inside or chewing
on things she shouldn’t.
For general management during puppy housetraining and the
destructive young dog phase, baby gates, tethering your puppy
to you, and closing doors are all helpful. So is puppy-proofing
the house, by putting as many items as you can out of your
puppy’s reach.
Crate training is also a very useful option. Other types of
management include having a leash and treats ready at the
door to prevent door dashing and jumping on people, and using
a Halti head collar to prevent leash pulling while teaching
your puppy to walk on a loose leash.
Puppies don’t learn what is “right” or “wrong.” What they
learn is to repeat behaviors that have pleasant consequences,
and to avoid doing things that make bad things happen. Behavior
that “works,” by allowing your puppy to accomplish a goal,
relieve frustration or stress, or meet a need, will continue,
and will become a “habit” – either good or bad.
If your puppy can bark and successfully get your attention,
she learns barking is what she should do when she wants something.
Don’t be trapped into giving your puppy what she wants to
stop annoying or embarrassing behavior. If you never reward
these behaviors, your puppy will stop doing them.
Instead, teach your puppy what to do when she wants something
from you. One way to do this is to have your puppy respond
to a cue such as, “sit”, “down”, “shake hands, “ etc., before
receiving things she wants, such as being petted, played with,
let outside, put on a leash for a walk, etc.
This pattern creates an expectation for your puppy that responding
to these cues predicts “good things” will happen. By establishing
“good habits,” we are preventing “bad ones” from developing.
Step 3: Meet Your Puppy’s Behavior and Developmental
Needs Top of Page
It will be easier for your puppy to be a well-behaved companion
if you meet her needs. For example, you won’t be able to housetrain
your puppy if you don’t give her enough opportunities to relieve
herself outside. If your puppy doesn’t have either enough
chew toys, or the right kind, don’t be surprised if she begins
chewing the furniture. Opportunities to chew, eliminate and
play are all behavioral needs in dogs. Behavioral needs are
things that a dog must have to behave in a normal way. Trying
to prevent them from happening will only create more problems
for your dog.
Perhaps the most important developmental need puppies have
is the need for socialization. Early in life, it is vitally
important that your puppy learn to treat people and other
animals as friends, and how to adapt to new things and situations.
Socialization is not an automatic process, but one you must
put considerable time and energy into. While young puppies
may be very friendly because they are generally not fearful,
without socialization, this openness will NOT persist into
adulthood.
Puppies also need a safe, comfortable place to sleep. It should
be out of the main traffic of the house but not isolated from
the family. Your puppy should have the freedom to go to her
sleep spot whenever she wishes. For many puppies a crate may
be the first sleep spot they have.
Dogs need exercise and mental stimulation. Socialization experiences,
walks, play periods and training should help provide these
needs for your puppy.
Step 4: Use the “Take-Away” Method to Discourage
Behaviors You Don’t Like Top of Page
There are two main ways to decrease behaviors you don’t like.
One is to follow the behavior with something aversive; which
is anything your puppy will work to avoid. The other is to
take away something desirable when your puppy performs the
unwanted behavior.
Get in the habit of using the “take away” method, and you
will avoid many of the problems aversives can create. The
trick to using the method successfully is to know what your
puppy wants and be able to control her access to it.
In addition, the “good thing” must be taken away immediately
following the behavior and must be taken away every time she
does the unwanted behavior. Any delay or inconsistency will
result in failure.
After the take away, give your puppy another chance to do
the right behavior so the thing she wants can be returned
to her. As an example:
Behavior What To Take Away
Nipping at hands Chance to play with you – walk away
Pulling on the leash Chance to keep moving forward – stop,
stand still
Jumping up Chance to be petted – turn your back or leave the
room
Attacking your ankles Chance to be with you – put puppy in
a small, dark room
For a few minutes, or someplace else she doesn’t want
Behavior What To Take Away
Playing Roughly Chance to play – take toy away, stop playing
and walk Away.
A time out is one type of take – away method. With this method,
you are taking away your puppy’s chance to receive any reward
for the unwanted behavior.
Step 5: Make Discipline the Last Resort and Use
it Correctly Top of Page
The word “discipline” is a vague term with many different
meanings. Because a wellness approach focuses on you helping
your puppy learn to do the right thing, discipline is the
last tool in your toolbox, not the first. Even when used correctly,
which is very difficult to do, the most discipline can accomplish
is to teach your puppy what not to do. The most important
part of training is teaching your puppy what to do.
Using the wrong type of discipline can result in your puppy
being afraid of you, your hands, or anything in the surrounding
environment your puppy associates with this unpleasant treatment.
The more unpleasant the experience, especially if it causes
pain, the greater the likelihood for these harmful side effects.
Usually the best use of discipline is when it is an automatic
and immediate consequence of your puppy’s behavior, in the
form of “booby traps,” or remote punishment. Remote punishment
is either triggered directly by your puppy’s behavior, or
is something that you can activate at a distance, without
touching your puppy. Examples include a SSSCat a motion detector
that sprays a harmless mist when activated, or a Snappy Trainer,
a harmless, modified mousetrap that flies into the air when
triggered.
To be effective, discipline must be consistent and immediate.
Never ever try to punish your puppy for behavior you didn’t
see her do. Because it’s unlikely you’ll catch every occurrence
of the unwanted behavior, discipline is less effective than
you might think.
You’ll find that merely interrupting an unwanted behavior
and replacing it with a desirable one is a better choice.
For example, if you catch your puppy chewing on the sofa,
clap your hands to interrupt her, and then direct her attention
to a chewie of her own.
Nutrition Top of Page
Foods you want to avoid:
- High Fat Foods
- Bones
- Cow Hoofs (May break teeth)
- Pig’s Ears (May carry salmonella)
- Chocolate
- Grapes
- Raisins
- Onions
- Knotted Rawhides
Health Top of Page
Your dog will be healthier if she or he is spayed or neutered.
Neutered animals have a reduced incidence of cancer, reproductive
infections, urine marking and injuries caused by roaming and
fighting. Aggression may also be reduced, as will female behavioral
changes during heat.
Help Your Puppy Do the Right Thing
Make it pleasant for your puppy to give in to you and to do
what you want him to do. Use treats, play and other rewards
to encourage your puppy to do what you want.
Use the “Take-Away” Method to Discourage Behaviors You Don’t
Like
If your puppy plays too roughly, or paws or nips for attention,
walk away from him, and end the encounter. Don’t encourage
this behavior and don’t get into a confrontation with him.
A Step-by-Step Guide to Crate Training Top of Page
Some important points to remember:
- Your puppy must be comfortable and relaxed at each step
before progressing to the next.
- The most common mistake you can make is trying to do
too much too soon.
- Do NOT attempt to leave you puppy alone in the crate
without progressing through the following steps.
- Your Puppy Enters the Crate Willingly.
How: Toss treats and toys inside and let your puppy’s
natural curiosity encourage her to explore the crate,
or feed your puppy meals in the crate for a day or
so. Be sure to tie the door back so it doesn’t accidentally
slam shut and frighten your puppy. How long should
it take: Most puppies can accomplish this step the
first day. Fearful puppies may require several days
of training.
- Your Puppy Can Be Relaxed in the Crate with You
in Sight for 15-20 Min
How: Tell your puppy to “Kennel Up” and give your
puppy her special toy. This special toy should be
available only when your puppy is crated and will
help her look forward to being crated. As your puppy
settles and chews on her toy, close the crate door
for just a few seconds. Stay close by, where your
puppy can see you and you can observe her behavior.
Open the door and let your puppy out, but don’t fuss
over her. Be sure to pick up the special toy, or leave
it in the crate and shut the door.
If your puppy was calm, repeat after a few minutes,
and leave her in the crate a few minutes longer. Don’t
overdo these repetitions. Give your puppy plenty of
free time in between. Gradually increase you puppy’s
time in the crate until you reach your goal of 20
minutes. This step could be easily practiced while
watching TV, or during part of your mealtime, as long
as the crate is kept near you. Don’t forget the “Kennel
Up” command and your puppy’s special toy. How long
should it take: Most puppies can accomplish this step
within one to three days. If your puppy has been previously
traumatized or is very fearful, this step could require
a week or more.
- Your Puppy Can Relax in the Crate for 30 Minutes
with You Out of Sight or Overnight.
How: Begin by crating your puppy for less than 20
minutes while you are doing other things, such as
chores around the house. At first, so your puppy knows
you are still nearby, come back into the room frequently,
but ignore her, and then walk away again. Slowly increase
the portion of out of sight time until it’s up to
the full 20 minutes. Work on the last 10 minutes the
same way – in and out of her sight until you reach
30 minutes. At this point, you can also try crating
your puppy overnight, but the crate should be moved
to your bedroom for this part of your puppy’s training.
- Your Puppy Can Stay in the Crate for an Hour When
you are Gone
How: With very little fanfare, crate your puppy using
the “Kennel Up” words and the special toy. Be sure
to take your puppy’s collar off to prevent any injuries.
Calmly leave the house and return within 30 minutes.
It’s a good idea to video or audio tape your puppy
to be sure she remains calm and relaxed. Over the
next day or two, crate your puppy when you leave the
house for increasingly longer time periods. However,
continue to do some very brief crating times both
when you are home and away so that your puppy doesn’t
think that crating times are always becoming longer
and always mean she will be alone. By now, you should
be able to leave your puppy crated when you are gone
from the house for several hours.
SOCIALIZATION Top of Page
- Puppies’ first social bonds are with her mother and
littermates.
- Early on, puppies also need to form bonds with people.
- Social learning can help puppies learn normal social
behavior and how to behave towards others.
- Social learning is occurring when your puppy plays and
interacts with other puppies, people, and other animals.
- She learns how to be friendly, not only to puppies,
but also to people, cats and other animals she is exposed
to.
- She is also learning the consequences of being too rough
and what happens if she threatens others, and what to
do when others threaten her.
- Puppies also learn by assuming different roles in their
relationships, sometimes being assertive and confident,
and other times being submissive and “Giving In.”
- Good socialization during Puppyhood has a critical effect
on your dog’s adult behavior. By socializing your puppy
to all forms, shapes and sizes of people and other animals
can have the greatest positive influence on your dog’s
personality than almost anything else you can do.
BEST AGE TO SOCIALIZE YOUR PUPPY
Sensitive period for socialization (4 to 12 weeks) is where
puppies accept unfamiliar things almost effortless.
During this period, most puppies are like sponges where they
soak up new experiences everyday. They’re willing to try new
things, and accept people and other animals more readily.
This is what makes socialization so easy; they’re not afraid
of much.
HOW SHOULD YOU BEGIN SOCIALIZING YOUR PUPPY?
Begin by “Gently” petting her and pair it occasionally with
a treat and then let her play.
If she appears to be nervous about something new, don’t force
her to approach the new item, person or animal. Take it slow
by creating baby steps.
If she’s afraid to approach a tall bearded man, have him sit
or kneel down so that he doesn’t look as frightening.
If your puppy runs away from the vacuum cleaner, put it in
another room where you first turn it on. Find ways to make
scary situations less intimidating for your puppy, so that
she can overcome her fear.
WHAT KIND OF SOCIALIZATION EXPERIENCES DO PUPPIES NEED?
First you have to consider what your puppy will be doing as
an adult. Do you want her to enjoy traveling in the car with
you? Then you’ll need to start introducing her to car rides
now. You’ll want your puppy to be good with friendly, well
behaved children so now is the time to socialize her with
kids.
Also, make sure that your puppy is socialized to other dogs,
cats, and people of all different shapes, sizes, and ages.
Expose her to tall, big men with deep voices, and short, small
women with squeaky voices. Men with beards, hats and glasses
and also your postmen, fireman and policemen should be introduced
to your puppy.
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